Expedition Prep

Curriculum Details 

This course is designed to provide climbers and mountaineers with the necessary skills and knowledge to not only survive, but to thrive in expedition life. The course will cover essential topics such as gear selection, backcountry navigation, glacier travel/rescue, snow camping, and wilderness ethics. The curriculum will include a combination of lectures, discussions, hands-on practice and plenty of opportunities for experience.

Course Objectives:

• In-depth discussions of expedition equipment.
• Understand navigation techniques using maps, compasses, and modern GPS tools.
• Practice with winter anchors, glacier travel and crevasse rescue.
• Understand how to set up a campsite for safety, comfort, and sustainability
• Learn safety and health considerations for extended expeditions in inhospitable environments.
• Understand wilderness ethics and how to minimize the impact on the environment.

Course Curriculum:

Module 1: Introduction to Expedition Preparation

• Course overview and objectives
• The importance of expedition preparation
• Common types of expeditions (Denali, Aconcagua, Everest)
• Risk management in outdoor expeditions
• Equipment selection and organization

Module 2: Navigation Techniques

• Introduction to maps, compasses, and GPS
• Basic navigation skills
• Advanced navigation techniques
• Navigation in different terrains and environments

Module 3: Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescu

• Glacier travel techniques
• Snow and ice anchors
• Rope ascension/ self extrication
• Crevasse rescue techniques

Module 4: Winter camp craft

• Introduction to campsite setup
• Choosing a campsite
• Tent set up and maintenance
• Cooking and food storage
• Self-care and overnight considerations

Module 5: Wilderness Ethics

• Introduction to wilderness ethics
• Leave-no-trace principles
• Ethical considerations for wildlife encounters
• Sustainable and responsible outdoor practices

Practical hands-on practice is strongly emphasized with each module, we believe in a learning-by-doing approach. The foundational skills will be built upon throughout the course with a logical progression through the curriculum. No matter how lofty your mountain goals are, we can help you achieve them.

Recommended Equipment 

Clothing

• Sun hoody – this should be a very lightweight synthetic fabric that is worn next to the skin. It has long sleeves and a hoody.
• Fleece – this piece also be relatively thin and is designed to be worn over the sun hoody on colder days. Long sleeves and a hood. I prefer to forgo pockets on this layer because they become unusable and bulky underneath a harness or backpack. This layer is not a jacket!
• Softshell jacket— intended to be worn over the fleece, this layer cuts the wind and light precipitation. Should also have a hood. Can be worn during aerobic activities such as hiking or climbing so it shouldn’t have any insulation.
• Hardshell jacket – for when the conditions deteriorate. Should be fully waterproof.
• Puffy jacket – think of this layer as your sleeping bag away from camp. To be worn at high altitudes, predawn snack breaks, or winter ascents. 800+ fill down and lots of it and hooded.
• Long underwear bottoms— synthetic or merino wool (no cotton!), depending on the trip either thick or thin long underwear is appropriate.
• Softshell pants— Comfortable pants that you can spend several days wearing. I like lighter colors such as gray because they don’t absorb as much heat in the summer.
• Hardshell pants— full-length zippers on the sides! This is mandatory for putting them on/off over your boots.
• Synthetic puffy pants—this piece is optional based on the time of year/location of your trip. full side zippers! Great for long belays in the winter or at camp when the temps drop. (optional)

Gloves

• Thin gloves— these are to be worn during aerobic activities in cool to cold climates. I prefer something that is weather resistant and not just a fleece liner glove.
• Medium-weight gloves – much like the thin gloves, but with more insulation and less dexterity.
• Heavy-weight gloves or mittens – these are for summit morning or when the temps dip well below freezing.
  

Footwear

Note: any of these three options will work. Although a full double boot might be a bit much. Each has its pros/cons, if you have any questions at all about footwear, please let me know because it is vitally important to have a good trip.

• 3-season mountaineering boots – 3⁄4 or full-shank stiff mountaineering boots. Not well insulated for winter, but more than capable of firm snow and glacier travel. Not recommended for technical ice climbing. May or may not have a toe welt for crampon compatibility. Definitely has a heel welt for crampons.
  
• 4-season mountaineering boots – full-shank winter mountaineering boots with both toe and heel welt for crampon compatibility. Well-insulated with integrated gaiter preferred.
• Double boots — Denali or winter overnight with sub-zero temps. Sometimes referred to as a 6000-meter boot. This boot has all the same characteristics of a 4-season boot, only it is warmer, heavier and has a fully removable liner.
  Misc. clothing
  

• Sunglasses — these are critical, you don’t want snow blindness! Dark lenses that fit well over your eyes and cover your entire field of vision. For on-snow activities side shields are recommended. I like photochromatic lenses that change with the conditions, but they are more expensive.
  
• Buff or neck gaiter (maybe bring two) — this should be a tube of a lightweight synthetic material similar to your sun hoody. Make sure that it also has a specific SPF rating.
• Baseball cap or visor — to protect your face from the Sun.

Hardware

• Helmet — specifically designed for climbing and mountaineering.
• Harness — Modern climbing harness with a belay loop. For mountaineering, I like a lighter-weight harness with less padding and the ability to accept “ice clippers”.
• Mountain axe – Your standard mountaineering axe.
• Crampons – Many different styles exist so make absolutely sure that they are compatible with your boots. For snow climbing, glacier travel and general mountaineering a horizontal front point is preferred. Make absolutely sure they are compatible with your boots.
• Belay/rappel device - ATC-style belay device
• Carabiners - Four locking carabiners
• Sling - 120 cm in length
• Pulley(Optional) - Petzl Micro Traxion and Tibloc
• Backpack – For Baker in the summer overnight 50-60 liters is usually sufficient. Some features specifically for mountaineering that you’ll want are a crampon pouch and ice axe attachment points. Features to avoid are external water bottle pockets, mesh back panels, hydration systems and Ospray backpacks.
  

Sleeping system

• Inflatable sleeping pad – depending on if you are sleeping on snow or not check the R-value to ensure that it is insulated enough for your needs.
• Down sleeping bag – Again the rating will depend on your specific objective and time of year. I prefer down sleeping bags because they are warmer and more compressible. For summer mountaineering something in the 20 F range is ideal depending on if you run hot or cold.

Other items...

• Water bottles - The capacity for 2 liters of water
• Sunscreen – I prefer the stick kind so that it doesn’t get all over my hands.
• Toiletries